OBJECTIVE:  Exploration of various millinery techniques including:  the blocked, constructed
buckram, straw, and soft hat. Some basic information on the history of hats and how to
restore and care for hats.  Hat projects will have emphasis on both historical and theatrical
interpretations.

CLASS FORMAT:  The classes will consist of lectures and demonstrations as well as
laboratory time working on projects.

TEXTS:       FROM THE NECK UP: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking
                           D. Dreher  Madhatter Press  C.1981
 
SUPPLEMENT TEXTS:    HATS ON HEADS:  The Art of Creative Millinery
                                                Mildred Anlezark  Kangaroo Press 1991
                                             OLD FASHION RIBBON ART  Dover Publications

MATERIALS:  Some of the materials will be provided but each student will be required to
provide many of the supplies, which will include fabric, thread, trims, felt bodies. The cost
will vary with each project.  This could  be anywhere between $ 10. to $ 50. per project
depending on the type of materials need for the project.  Any material not found locally
needs to be ordered in a timely manner in order for it to be received on time.  All fabric
used for projects must be approved before starting on project.

TOOLS and EQUIPMENT:  Most of the millinery tools and equipment will be provided.  Each
student will need to have basic sewing supplies, including:
     -metal push pins--5/8"
     -quilter’s pins or other glass head pins
     -set of millinery needles, other assorted needles, bees wax
     -set of scissors--for paper/buckram and cloth
     -damping and press cloths
     -pin cushion with emery bag
     -marking and tracing supplies--pencils, wheels, etc.
     -measuring devices--gauge, tape measure, etc.
     -needle nose pliers
     -seam ripper

SAFETY:  Each student will be required to follow proper safety procedures in regard to tools
or materials and to be dressed in appropriate attire--safety goggles, rubber gloves, and/or
respirator when applicable.  Please note the location these supplies plus that of the toxic
waste container, fire extinguisher, eye wash and shower station, exhaust fan and first aid
kit.

CLEAN UP PROCEDURES:  At the end of each work session, each student should participate
in a general clean up of their area.  All tools and supplies are to be place in there proper
storage areas.  (This will be especially important when working in the  costume shop, as
shows will be in production.)  Note that we will be working in cramped spaces so that it is
imperative that everyone should be considerate of each other and their work.

WEB SIGHTS:
 
  http://member.aol.com/nebula5/  The Costume Page
   This page will link you to numerous resource pages including costume
   books on line,  museums  plus some millinery information.

GRADING AND PROJECTS:

 Soft Hat Project                        10%
 Blocked Felt Hat                       10%
 Buckram Constructed Hat         30%
 Straw Braid Hat                        10%       A    90-100%
 Wire Frame Hat                        10%       B     80-89%
 Test                                          10%       C    70-79%
 Notebook                                 10%       D    60-69%
 Participation                              10%       F       0-58%
 

All work is to be finished on day of critique.  Work handed in more than one week late
will be dropped by one half grade.  Any exception to this must be discussed with me
prior to the due date.

 Notebook  (1” to 1 1/2” Three ring binder) that should include:
   Technical and material information handouts
   Notes from class
   Research for hat projects and materials
   Samples from class--buckram, wire, sizing, stitches, etc.
   Project progression journal and in-process photos for the Buckram Hat.
   Bibliography
   Vender sources

ABSENCES: Only TWO unexcused absences will be allowed.  For each additional absence,
the final grade will be lowered by one/third--for example:  an A becomes and A-, A-
becomes a  B+, etc.  Students are expected to arrive promptly.  Excessive tardiness will be
considered as an absence.
 
ADA: Anyone with a disability needs to report to the Student Disability Resource Center for
proper documentation.

FSU HONOR CODE:   Students are expected to uphold the Academic Honor code published
in The Florida State University Bulletin and Student Handbook.   Each student has the
responsibility:
 1.  to uphold the highest standards of academic integrity in the student's own work,
 2.  to refuse to tolerate violations of academic integrity in the University
  community,
 3.  to foster a high sense of integrity and social responsibility on the part of the
  University community.
Violations of this code in any assignment, test, paper, or attendance sign-in will receive a
minimum penalty of a grade of zero for the assignment in question and/or may receive an
"F" for the course at the option of the instructor.
 
CLASS SCHEDULE:

Week 1   August 24--Introduction to class; Analysis of designer's sketch; Introduction to
                   soft hat project & assignment; Diagnostic sewing skills test.
               August 26-- Discussion of muslin, pattern and materials for soft hat project.
                   Reading: TEXT--Preface, Lessons: Designing the Hat; Materials and
                   Equipment; Stitches and Techniques;  Designing the Pattern.
 
Week 2   August 31--Work on soft hat project
               September 2--Work on soft hat project.

Week 3   September 9--CRITIQUE OF SOFT HATS--Class discussion and critique;
                   Demonstration on blocking felt, buckram and straw and assignment;
               Reading: TEXT--Working with Felt.
 
Week 4    September 14--Hat History; Demonstration on  renovation of older hats.
                   Reading: TEXT--Renovations and Alterations
                September 16--Block hat; Wire and size blocked hat, work on trim.

Week 5    September 21--Intro. to buckram hat project & assignment.  Work on block
                   hat.
                September 23--CRITIQUE OF BLOCKED FELT HATS

Week 6    September 28--Demonstration: Working with  buckram and felt; Begin work on
                   buckram hat.
                   Reading:  TEXT--Constructing the Foundation
                 September 30--Work on buckram frame;  size frame.

Week 7    October 5--Demonstration: Covering sized hat base; Work on covering hat
                   base.
                   Reading: TEXT--Covering the Shape; Facing Brims and Binding Edges.
                October 7--Finish work on covering buckram hat
 
Week 8    October 12--Lecture and demonstration:   trims, feathers, decorative and
                   standard hat bands, lining.
                   Reading: TEXT--Trimming the Hat; Finishing Interior.
                October 14--Trimming and lining the buckram hat.
 
Week 9    October 19--Demonstration: straw hat and assignment.
                   Reading: TEXT--Working with Straw.
                 October 21--CRITIQUE OF BUCKRAM HATS

Week 10   October 26--Begin work on straw hats.
                 October 28--Work on straw hats.

Week 11   November 2--Wire and size straw hats;
                 November 4--Work on trim and finish straw hats.
 
Week 12   November 9--Demonstration:  wire frame hats and head pieces.
                    Reading: TEXT--Wire frame hats.

Week 13   November 16--TEST on Text and lectures and demonstrations;
                   Work on wire frame hat.
                 November 18--CRITIQUE OF STRAW HATS

Week 14   November 23--Work on wire frame hat
                 November 25--Work on wire frame hat

Week 15   November 30--CRITIQUE OF WIRE FRAME HAT
                 December 2--Research Notebooks Due; End of semester clean up.

NO FINAL WRITTEN EXAM